Published in Ferment Magazine, 27 September 2019
I wrote an article exploring one of beer’s enduring annual events, Zwanze Day.
If beer is your religion then Zwanze Day is one of its many annual observances, albeit one reserved for particularly fervent churchgoers. This ritual pertains to the Apostolic Church of Cantillon, and celebrates a style of brewing that was almost lost to the world.
It’s hosted at select venues across the globe, and in London has moved from The Kernel Brewery to Beer Merchant’s Tap.
Beer Merchant’s Tap, with its high ceilings and sunlight slanting through high windows, makes a good cathedral for the cult of funk; its Lambic cage a fine reliquary.