Published in Ferment Magazine, 3 July 2021
In this article I write about the importance of ritual in our daily lives, and the role spritzes can play in marking the transition between work and play.
If the past eighteen months or so have taught us anything it’s that you must take your pleasure where you can. At the end of another working day, as we shift between what we have to do and what we want to, these drinks are a nice reminder that life can be a little better.
I also talk to Polpo founder Richard Beatty about how he got the nation drinking spritzes again, and redeemed their once decidedly naff image.
“It’s ubiquitous now but everyone’s probably forgotten how it all started,” he says.
Richard is the co-founder of Polpo, a small-dish restaurant based on Venetian bàcaros, that he owns together with his wife Florence Knight. Spritzes were “the first thing on the menu, the first day we opened,” he tells me.